EcoSoya CB-135 Wax
EcoSoya CB-135 is a one-pour soy wax resulting in a level surface with excellent container adhesion.   It’s 100% all vegetable made from soybeans and has outstanding stability with no experienced shelf life in or out of candles. Old or partial candles may be remelted and the wax reused.  Keep EcoSoya CB-135 stored in a cool dry area away from direct heat or sunlight.

General Candle Making
Making a candle is a process of combing wax with dye, fragrance, container configuration and wick.  All these components can have a dramatic effect on the wax and how the candle performs.   Dyes and fragrances can react poorly with each and cause problems with wicking.  They can also react with the wax to produce undesirable effects.

Choose a container that you want to use for your candle.  Pick and mix a dye with the wax that gives you the desired look, use a wick you think will burn well.  Confirm that the combination looks the way you want it to. Then choose a fragrance and add it to the container, wax, dye and wick combination.  Check the look and scent throw (both cold and hot) of the candle.  If the look is off then you may need another type or manufacturer of dye or fragrance.  If the scent throw is not good you may need another type of wick or a different type or manufacturer of fragrance.  Fragrances vary from company to company; for example, one company may have hundreds of different vanillas that are different from another company’s vanillas.

Now check your wicking.  Test burn the candle for burn pool diameter and “mushrooming”.  Mushrooming is when carbon and/or other substances build up on the end of the wick interfering with combustion. Mushrooming can cause sooting and bad odors.   Try different wicks until you have your desired burn pool diameter and a good clean flame.  The burn pool should be about ¼ to ½ inch deep.

Every combination of container, wax, dye, fragrance and wick must be tested for burn quality.

Containers
Containers should be clean and room temperature.  No container preheating is necessary.

Color
Most any dyes work with EcoSoya.  We recommend powder dyes as liquid dye may cause objectionable frosting and/or bleed due to their solvent base.  However many liquid dyes do work well.  Pigments do not dissolve in EcoSoya.  When using powder dyes heat the wax to 190° F, add the dye and mix until dissolved. When using liquid dyes, color blocks or chips or no dye heat the wax to 165° F.

If you wish to make your candle darker or “richer” add a little black dye to the color you are using.

Fragrance
EcoSoya CB-135 may be used with most any fragrance or essential oil.   Soap fragrances can be used for matched gift sets.  Burn pool size and depth greatly affect scent throw.  Strive for a full diameter pool with a depth of ¼ to ½ inch.

Some fragrances may react poorly with the wax causing bleed or objectionable frosting; try a different fragrance or manufacturer.

Wicking
EcoSoya soy wax when melted is more viscous than paraffin requiring the use of larger wicking than you may be use to with paraffin.  For example; a #4 or #5 square braid wick, a HTP -1212 wick, a 45 ply & higher flat braid wick or a Performa-140 wick will create a pool size of 3.5 to 4.5 inches depending on container type, shape and size as well as fragrance and dye types used.  In general non-cored wicks work best.

EcoSoya tends to burn more down then out as compared to paraffin allowing them to have longer burning periods.  This also requires that the wick be kept trimmed 1/8 to 1/4 inch; retrim as the candle is burned.

Melting
When using powder dyes heat the wax to 190° F, add the dye and mix until dissolved. When using liquid dyes or no dye at all, heat the wax to 165° F.  EcoSoya waxes can be melted in the microwave, if desired.

Allow the wax to cool to your desired pour temperature, add the fragrance and mix well.

Pouring
As a generalization we suggest pouring at 125°F for most applications, this will vary according to container type & size, fragrance & dye used and the effects you want to achieve.  You can pour as low as 100° F if the wax is kept in motion (constant mixing) up until pouring.   Lower pour temperatures help to eliminate possible frosting while producing a smooth top and good adhesion. There is a difference in cooling rates for different container configurations.  Cooling too quickly or too slowly can cause concaving and/or frosting.  Large jars such as the apothecary configurations cool slower and require lower pour temperatures, about 125° F or lower.  Tall thin jars such as an 8 ounce jamming jar cool fast requiring a higher pour temperature, about 155° F.  If you experience difficulties with your pour temperature try a lower or higher temperature.

Candle Cooling
Cool undisturbed candles at room temperature (about 70° F).  The containers should be about 1/4 to 1/2 inch apart to allow air circulation for even cooling.  The container should remain open during cooling, at least 24 hrs, (large candles, 2 lbs and greater may require longer times).

General Troubleshooting
If you experience a problem with your candle, try the following steps to isolate the cause.  Whatever the issue may be it’s important that you test for only one variable at a time.  This enables you to isolate the cause of your problem.  Variables include but are not limited to the container, wax, dye, fragrance, wick, pour temperature and even environmental conditions.

First make a candle in the container with only the wick (no dye or fragrance).  If it looks good then the wax is performing normally.
Then one at a time change a variable. Try adding the dye without fragrance to the container, wax and wick.  If it looks good and burns well the dye is compatible with the wax.
Try adding the fragrance without dye to the container, wax and wick.  If it looks good and burns well the fragrance is compatible with the wax.
Try the dye and fragrance together with the container, wax and wick.  If it looks good and burns well the dye/fragrance combination is compatible with the wax.
If you are experiencing burn problems, try a different type or size of wick.
Other variables to try are different pouring and cooling temperatures and even different containers.
Be sure all equipment and materials are contamination free.  This can be a lot of work but you will find the cause of your problem.  Be sure to record all your testing and results.  When you do find the cause, substitute a different type or manufacturer of that component until you achieve the results you desire.

The above suggestions are only suggestions, your results may vary. Testing and experimenting are the only way to achieve the effects and results you desire. Be sure to follow all safety precautions and directions recommended by the manufacturer of the tools, materials and equipment you use.  We welcome your comments and suggestion.